Most posts to those 3 comms fail, but sometimes that’s lemmy errors. Anyway.

Rough Rider .22 revolver. Shells on the right are spent, left are unfired. Cylinder won’t rotate after the 3rd shot because the shells deform and poke up. Hell is that? It’s like they fire, bounce back and crumple, which doesn’t seem physically possible.

Sure seems like that’s happening when shooting it. Tested 5 cylinders, .22 and .22WMR, all the same results. Scarily, I can feel some back blast from the more powerful .22WMR, which again shouldn’t be possible.

Took it apart for some deep cleaning the other night, didn’t see anything weird, put it back together. Still fails. And this is the 3rd such gun I’ve owned, not my first rodeo.

  • Doofytoe@sh.itjust.works
    3·
    2 days ago

    Seconding this one. Looking at the furthest from camera case, my money it that there is play in the cylinder along the axis of the cylinder pin. That case being swollen, just above the rim means one thing, that the case has enough room to move back out of the cylinder while firing to allow that to happen. Overpressure i.e. hot loads may be contributing to an issue you wouldn’t observe with lighter loads. Have you played around using different ammo?

    • shalafi@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      1·
      1 day ago

      play in the cylinder along the axis of the cylinder pin

      Got me in the zone! Testing today and the cylinder pin wasn’t seating tight. Tried to tighten the release button, already tight, seemed good for a minute.

      Fired 6 rounds, but it got sticky. Same issue, but not as bad. Too tired to mess with it more tonight, but the cylinder is indeed moving forward on the cylinder pin axis.

      You are now my rubber duck.

    • shalafi@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      21·
      2 days ago

      All ammo, all cylinders. Taking it out in a bit and holding the cylinder tight against the gun when I fire. Bet money that works, not sure where to go from there.

      • Doofytoe@sh.itjust.works
        1·
        17 hours ago

        There’s two things that could get it acting right that I can think of: Replace the cylinder (expensive, may not work but might) Shim it i.e. find a washer with internal diameter of cylinder pin or smaller and rut it out to the right diameter, then file it down to the width that takes the play out ( couple issues with this, one it’ll increase the flash gap i.e. bigger halos, reduced velocity and increased leading, two potential annealing of the makeshift shim with the fram of the gun) Let us know how it goes